US college student and commercial aviation writer Zach Benitez paid $123 for an Iraqi Airways economy-class flight from Baghdad to Dubai. The roughly two-and-a-half-hour trip offered a close look at a state-owned airline renewing its fleet after years of war, sanctions and scrutiny over aviation oversight—while questions about operations and safety remain.
Iraqi Airways has never operated scheduled commercial flights to the United States. Limited demand for Middle East routes is one reason US travelers rarely encounter the carrier; concerns about Iraq’s aviation oversight are another. The airline has been barred by the European Union from operating relevant flights since 2015, after regulators cited serious shortcomings in its operations and corporate management.
Benitez had safety concerns before boarding. The airline’s only fatal crash occurred in 1986 in connection with a hijacking, while Iraq’s civil aviation authority has yet to meet international aviation oversight standards. A newer fleet does not, by itself, resolve broader regulatory or operational issues.
Iraqi Airways adds newer aircraft
Rather than the aging aircraft Benitez expected, his flight was operated by a Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner about three years old. Iraqi Airways took delivery of two nearly new 787-8s in 2023 and expects more aircraft to join the fleet by 2027.
The airline has been replacing some of its aircraft in recent years. Its fleet now averages about 11 years old, close to the average at major regional carriers such as Emirates and Qatar Airways. Iraqi Airways was also among the first airlines in the Middle East to operate the Airbus A220, and began taking delivery of next-generation Boeing 737 Max 8 aircraft in 2023.
The cabin, however, did not look as new as the aircraft itself. Benitez found stains on the seats, crumbs in the cushions and dirty seatback pockets. The beige-and-blue interior felt plain, and its condition fell short of what might be expected on a plane just two or three years into service.
The contrast highlights the difference between fleet investment and day-to-day upkeep. Buying or leasing newer aircraft can lower a carrier’s average fleet age, but cabin cleaning, maintenance and operating standards require continued attention—particularly for an airline still rebuilding.
Pigeons roam Baghdad airport terminal
Before flying Iraqi Airways, Benitez arrived at Baghdad International Airport on Turkish Airlines from Istanbul. He had arranged a visa online through a third party for about $200, but did not leave the airport, giving him time to look around the terminal.
The pigeons stood out more than the airport’s architecture or shops. They moved through the terminal, with some perching on security cameras. During boarding, one landed on a passenger’s head and defecated. The people nearby reacted more calmly than Benitez had expected.
The scene was a striking departure from the order, cleanliness and facilities management many international carriers emphasize—and one of the most unexpected details of the trip.
Hot chicken and rice on a short flight
The onboard service offered a different surprise. Unlike many US domestic economy flights, Iraqi Airways served a full hot meal on the roughly two-hour flight, rather than limiting service to drinks, snacks or sandwiches.
The tray included hot chicken and rice, a small salad and water, with enough time for passengers to eat before descent. Benitez rated the meal well overall.
US airlines have broadly scaled back meal service on short-haul routes amid tight competition and pressure to control costs. Iraqi Airways is state-owned and receives government funding, giving it a different cost base and commercial pressures from those facing US carriers. It continues to offer hot meals on short flights.
The meal alone does not establish which airline offers better overall service. It does illustrate how ownership, route markets and cost structures can shape what passengers receive onboard.
Conversations reshaped expectations at the airport
Interactions with other travelers also surprised Benitez. While he was checking in, a man approached to ask where he was from. Because US travelers are uncommon there, they spent nearly an hour comparing family life and customs from their upbringings.
Later, when Benitez tried to buy bottled water at a coffee stand, another traveler offered to translate. The two also talked about the traveler’s experience studying English at university.
Benitez had worried that getting around Baghdad airport would be difficult. The US State Department currently advises against all travel to Iraq, which continues to face aviation safety concerns and geopolitical tensions. During his brief stop, however, he encountered not just airport facilities and security checks, but also the everyday experiences of local travelers.
The flight brought several realities into view at once: Iraqi Airways is rebuilding its fleet with aircraft including the Boeing 787, Airbus A220 and Boeing 737 Max 8, while cabin upkeep, safety oversight and operational management remain areas to watch. Newer aircraft, a hot meal and welcoming interactions improved Benitez’s experience, but did not erase the safety concerns previously raised by regulators.